Making 3D Pictures
by
The Red / Cyan Method
(Anaglyph) Continued

Clive R. Haynes FRPS

 

Tweaks and adjustments

NB. To make 'global' changes to the image, be certain to use the Layers Palette, otherwise, if you remain in 'Channels', you may find that you are adjusting one colour Channel only!

Sharpening: Use your preferred method at an appropriate level.

Brightness: As viewing via red/cyan spectacles can darken the scene, extra brightness is often required. This can be done via an 'Adjustment Layer' using Brightness & Contrast. However, depending upon the Image, 'Levels' or 'Curves' may be preferable. 'Adjustment Layers' are best for the task as they can be altered later without detriment to the image.

Tonality: Use either Levels or Curves via an Adjustment Layer

For more information about Adjustment Layers click on the link at the base of this page.

 

Re-alignment:
Should the two Red / Cyan image Channels be misaligned then some adjustment is possible. This is best done with the Red Channel only. Go to the 'Channels' Palette and activate the Red Channel. Click on the 'eye icon' in the RGB Channel - this automatically opens the Green & Blue Channel eye icons too.
Next, Select > All (Ctrl + A) 'Marching Ants' appear around the image border.
Choose the Move tool and adjust the positioning by the four direction-arrow keys on your keyboard. This will incrementally shift the Red image up/ down, left / right. Shifting left or right will decrease or increase apparent spatial separation. Viewing with the 'grid' visible (Ctrl + @) will help to accurately align. To close the 'grid), repeat, Ctrl + Alt + @

If necessary, the image (Red Channel) can also be rotated - do this via Edit > Transform > Rotate. However, remember to Select > All (Ctrl + A) first.

Deselect (Ctrl + D)

Use the Crop tool to remove unwanted sections of the image beyond the '3D window'.

 
Wide angle and telephoto considerations:
If the original images are photographed using wide angle lenses then the depth will be exaggerated, sometimes unacceptably so. A shift of less than 3 inches may be preferred. Conversely, long focal length lenses usually need a wider separation to give an illusion of depth - in this case a separation of several feet may be required between left and right pictures. However, with greater separation it's more difficult to maintain correct registration.
 
What sort of pictures work best?
In my experience the scenes that work best have many 'planes' of image information, are of a gentle contrast range and avoid large, dark, featureless areas. Dark areas frequently reveal ghost images from the other Channel which can be a distraction.
 
Improving the monochrome image
Improvements to tonality and contrast can be made by using 'Channel Mixer' (Image > Adjust > Channel Mixer, or accessible as an Adjustment Layer). Tick the 'Monochrome' box and alter the positions of the R, G, and B slider controls to suit).
 
A great deal of experimentation is required to perfect the technique, however I hope that these notes will tempt you to have a go.
 
Where to get the spectacles .... Cardboard framed red / green 3D spectacles are inexpensive and may be obtained from 3D Images Ltd., 31 The Chine, Grange Park, London, N21 2EA Tel: 020 8364 0022 / 0104 www.3Dimages.co.uk they also supply a whole range of other 3D-related products too.
 
I hope that this introduction to making stereo pictures will encourage you to explore the subject - it's a fascinating topic. For more information visit the 3D Images Ltd website and the Stereoscopic Society: www.stereoscopicsociety.org.uk/
 
 
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